Day 9 DonDeng – Luang Prabang (Nicky)
Woken up by the monastery drums at 4 am, followed soon after by the enthusiastic roosters! After breakfast and strong coffee - the spoon could literally stand up in it! We bade farewell to our kind hosts and headed off to Vat Phu which was an impressive fifth century temple. Lots of steep stairs, holy water, sacrificial crocodile stone for human sacrifices. Colin chatted away to a saffron robe clad monk who was eager to get his picture taken with us. It is interesting to see how few Caucasian visitors there were visiting the temple even though it is a World Heritage site! It was also very good to see that people were actually using garbage containers and there wasn’t much garbage strewn around. There is definitely a very different mindset towards garbage in South East Asia. The local people seem to throw their garbage anywhere.
In the afternoon we flew up to Luang Prabang - flight was a little sketchy….lots of turbulence. Surprisingly they also fed us. As we landed in LP we saw totally different countryside – steep mountains, jungle and lots of terraced rice paddies.
The town of LP is a world heritage site and is very quaint. The buildings definitely show the French colonial influence. It also had the best night market we have found so far with lots of local crafts, beautiful silks and needle work. Colin found a bottle of whisky complete with cobra and scorpion which he bought – not sure if it will be allowed back into Canada……
Day 10 Luang Prabang - waterfall (Colin)
An unusually reasonable start at 7:30 am saw us loaded into a tuk-tuk – yet another version of a tuk-tuk called (phonetically) a “som two” (seats 6 comfortably – we had 10 in it) for the ride up to a waterfall. It became interesting when a couple of large spiders were spotted. Several ladies tried to change seats which sent the tuk-tuk into a death wobble. On the way to the waterfall we went to a bear sanctuary – it had Asian black bears (a bit smaller than their North American cousins) and sun bears (much smaller). The bears were amazingly active, standing up and wrestling with each other – very cute.
The walk up to the waterfall was really beautiful with many falls over limestone rock and clear pools, surrounded by jungle. We elected to make the hike up over the top of the falls – it was fun over steep ground and wading across the river at the top, however no views were to be had. On the way down we stopped at a pool that had a great rope swing, followed by some swimming. Even Saf
ety Ann took a turn!!
In the afternoon we did a cycling tour of Luang Prabang which was great fun – the city is a world heritage site and quite beautiful with lots of old buildings which had a distinct French influence.
Day 11 Luang Prabang - Elephants (Nicky)
I was REALLY excited about what the day would bring as Colin and I had signed up to be mahouts (elephant trainers!!). When we arrived at the elephant camp our first activity involved climbing onto the back of the elephant by holding onto the top of its ear. The elephant would bend its knee to give you a boost and then basically the trainer shoved you until you managed to scramble up –not too dignified to say the least!! We also went for an elephant ride through the river. We had a choice of riding behind the elephant’s neck or on a “saddle” (like a park bench strapped to the elephant’s back). We both did the neck option. Our mahout was very keen to photograph us - 60 pics in five minutes!
In the afternoon we took the elephants down to the river to bathe them. We each had our own beastie and a scrubbing brush and rode down a steep path riding on their necks. The elephants sunk under the water, soaking us as we were on their backs – we didn’t have a change of clothes either!! We got to stand on their backs –it really was an amazing experience and certainly well worth it.
As soon as we got back from the elephants we went for a crazy bike ride around LP – speed seemed to be the order of the day!! A quick banana pancake by the river followed by the night market and off to bed quite exhausted (again)!
Day 12 – Luang Prabang – Vang Vieng (Colin)
This day involved a lot of traveling on our small 15 seat bus (typical to other legs of our journey) over some very steep windy roads. Jason describes this very well in his and Lisa’s blog as they travelled the same road a few weeks before. It consists of crazy overtaking heading into blind corners – one highlight was when our seriously underpowered bus actually overtook another bus which was its self overtaking!
The scenery was quite spectacular – lots of steep jungle covered hillsides many of which are cultivated with rice, corn and other unknown crops on impossibly steep terrain – just like you see in calendars, but not easily photographed because the air was quite hazy due to smoke from logging clearing fires.
When we got into Vang Veing, we went on a cycling tour of town which was fun, before going to an ‘Aussie’ restaurant for supper. Not too much Aussie about it, except for the steak and kidney pie that Nicky had as she was craving western food.
Day 13 - Vang Vieng – Vientene (Nicky)
Up bright and early for a kayaking trip on the Ton Soule River. We first decided to brave the local suspension bridge – very rickety, full of holes and very wobbly –a real fear factor experience! The kayaking was superb, and Colin and I managed to navigate most of the rapids, at one point it looked like we were going to capsize and we had to trade kayaks with the guide as ours sprung a leak.
Half way down the river we climbed up to a cave. Using flashlights and candles we crawled through narrow openings waded through pools and scrambled over slippery rocks. It was pretty exciting!
After a quick lunch we once again braved the crazy drivers and windy roads as we headed off to Vientiene the capital of Laos. The hotel (Laos Paris) here was a bit of a disappointment – not very clean and rather strange, with a few mosquitoes hovering around waiting to pounce – not too comforting in malaria country! In the evening we went for a tour of town (moderately interesting), followed by night marketing (more interesting), then a local disco (very interesting) up until the midnight curfew which the entire country is subject to.
Day 14 – Vientene - Bangkok (Colin)
In the morning we made a visit to the local UXO office – UXO is an organization that is working to clear up unexploded ordinance in Laos and assist land mine victims. It was really quite harrowing to get some insight into this largely unknown situation. We learned that in the early 70’s the USA contravened the Geneva agreements and bombed Laos (a small country with a population of 8 million) with more bombs than the entire amount of bombs that were used in WWII. It was called the Secret War because the USA emphatically denied doing it until it was exposed to the rest of the worked when so many Lao people fled the country & in turn was investigated by others. The USA motive was to curtail the “passive” support Laos was providing to the North Vietnamese by allowing men and supplies to sneak up and down the Ho Chi Mhin trail in Laos (I think). The nature of the bombs was horrific – cluster bombs that distribute about 300 smaller bombs (called bombies) – in total more than 80 million bombies were dropped. It’s estimated that more than 30% do not explode on impact and contaminate large chunks of the country – quite a hazard for farming.
In the afternoon we visited the local Laos National Museum – generally pretty lame, but the sentiments towards the “Imperialist Americans” and their “puppets” was loud and clear.
In the late afternoon we crossed over back into Thailand and boarded the overnight train to Bangkok. I was a little apprehensive about this leg wondering what we might get (or not get) for services, so took matters into my own hands by stocking up on basic survival rations (beer and chips) before we left. As it turned out it was fairly comfortable – they converted the seats into bunk beds, and served food – albeit a bit sketchy – especially the breakfast which Nicky tried to eat and came to regret it. I had one bite of my fried egg and backed off, so I fared better (but not scot free).